San Jose, Occidental Mindoro

San Jose is a standard provincial town, with most people just passing through or using it as a gateway point to Palawan or the magnificent Apo Reef. Stick around though and you'll see, that this is the kind of place where friendship flows freely. It's also home to world class diving and an abundance of marine life. People may try and touch your skin here, but with the accompanying look of bewilderment, and eyes that know no malice - it's hard to get upset. Just smile back and drop some Tagalog, you'll be amazed at the reaction you get.



It's also one of the most romantic cities in the whole country, with waterways akin to those of Venice (if only used in the suburbs) and an annual event dedicated to love on Valentine's Day. Referred to as 'Happy Heart Day,' the town is awash with tinsel and decorations that wouldn't look out of place on a Christmas card. The central plaza is flooded by neon love hearts, while couples stand hand in hand (or cheek to cheek) and a series of events put on by the beloved town Mayor. These include a battle of the bands, synchronized break-dancing routines, comedy sketches and prizes galore.


Occidental Mindoro is a Filipino province that sees few western faces. While Oriental Mindoro offers the beaches of Sabang, naughty nightlife and a ferry to Boracay, the other side of the island remains largely untouched and authentically Filipino. It provides visitors with a chance to see the real deal, not to mention village life when peering out of the jeepney on the journey there. Villagers are very friendly too, so don't be surprised if you're invited home for a glass of Ginebra, a local hard liquor (not for the faint of heart).

In town itself there is a very reasonable beach that you're more than likely to have to yourself. Nightlife is restricted to competing karaoke bars, where you won't be so much encouraged to sing - you'll be downright forced to. At sunset, take a walk along the beach. See traditional houses on stilts, bathing in a silky orange glow that only happens for a few moments each day.  On the way you're bound to pass some children engaged in torom po (a yo-yo variant), while dozing dogs yawn happily at their surroundings. Everyone you pass is more than likely to greet you fondly, as if you were an old friend. Wear a big smile and keep an open heart. If you do, you'll never want to leave.

After nightfall, the karaoke boxes go into overdrive, but that's not where the fun ends. San Jose is a haven for live music, with restaurants such as Chowder (Rizal street, opposite Jolibee) hosting bands every night of the week. Although covers of western pop songs from yesteryear are the norm, if you're lucky enough, you might just hear some Filipino folk songs.

Sabang, Puerto Galera

It's with apprehension and fear that I walk the plank, not off the boat but instead onto it. The drawbridge connecting the pier at Batangas, to the public ferry, is nothing more than a ladder splayed on its side. Balancing both a backpack and laptop carrybag, I dread each step, but thankfully make it on board without submerging myself.



I'm greeted in Sabang by the usual throng of touts hoping to gain a hotel commission or sell a shabby shark tooth necklace. Instead I look for my own lodging and find a quaint but clean room on the waterfront for 900 PHP. More than I was planning to spend, but seeing as I caught the last ferry of the day - I have only myself to blame.

During the day, Sabang is all about scuba diving and snorkeling, with other watersports on offer such as jet skis and island hopping. At night the town comes alive with naughty nightlife. Clubs and bars are abundant, with lots of go-go girls - all glitter and grins. Hobbling after them with lust in their eyes are older gentlemen, desperately trying to reclaim their youth and former glories.

Once you've passed the city limits of Manila, everything slows down. The pace of life in Sabang is incredibly laid back, and while city dwellers may complain about a lack of activities, this is the tropics - embrace it! Just don't expect an ATM. Kick back with a good book or beer on your balcony. No matter where you are in Sabang, you're never too far from the beach. The weather is warm all year round, so it's always a good time to swim.

You can hire a motorbike for next to nothing, like 500 PHP for a full day's riding. The laws are a little lax out here too, so don't expect having no license to stop you in your tracks. There are many sights nearby that are worth exploring too, such as nearby White Beach and many splendid waterfalls.

Snorkelling is superb, with crystal clear waters meaning visibility is uninterrupted in every direction. I float alongside shimmering shoals of fish that show no fear while I remain still. The fish display the sort of colors that put the neon signs in Las Vegas to shame. I spy an eel squirming out of an underground crevice, a pulsating green from tip to tail. Some of the other marine life present include; hawksbill turtles, reef sharks, pygmy seahorses and unfortunately - lots of jellyfish. Their sting is just irritating though, leaving behind nothing but a momentary itch.

Hire some gear (don't forget fins) and you're able to do some serious exploration! Caught adrift in an ocean current for several hours is more fun than it sounds. I found myself living out a Robinson Crusoe fantasy. A small but sufficient beach, without another person in sight! Instinctively, although not hungry in the least, I began my search for coconuts, finding only debris and tin containers rusted beyond recognition along the way. I resigned myself to a little sunbaking instead. The unmistakable call of the wild welcomes me back to reality, with a monkey's screech attempting to outdo a parrot's squawk.

This is the life =) 

Manila After Dark

(The following article was published on TouristAttitude on the 13th February, click here to check it out)

It would be hard to say that Manila ever truly goes to sleep. After all, this is a city comprised of sixteen separate cities, with a greater urban area of over twenty million people. That's bigger than London or New York City. It's also a town that's very difficult to pigeon hole. If you're partying it up in Malate or Makati, you might just feel like you've popped out west again. A trip to Intramuros will make you feel like you've gone back in time to the 16th century, while a trishaw ride at breakneck speeds through the streets of Pasay will firmly plant you back in Asia.

Shopping is serious business in town, with the SM - Mall of Asia currently reigning supreme as the biggest in all of Asia. Here you can find absolutely anything you'd possibly need, as well as many items you'd never need, even if you lived to be a hundred years old. For instance, there's an entire shop devoted to Buffalo bone carvings, talk about a niche market!

Makati is a part of the city that feels very westernized, with designer shopping, fast food chains and trendy hangout spots galore. The streets and buildings are meticulously clean and kept in tip top condition by an army of street sweepers. As such, the area is frequented by westerners on vacation, as well as expats seeking a break from the encompassing madness. This is in direct contrast to areas like Pasay, a part of town where spotting white folk could almost be considered a sport!

Malate is the premier district in town for nightlife, with bars, restaurants and a staggering amount of nightclubs. Electro music is the staple sound for the Manileno youth, and expect it to be played loud and until all hours of the night. Even on weekdays. Black Dragon Pub & Disco is a nightclub that stands out for me, with friendly staff, a wide selection of drinks and the kind of sound system that will make your ears hum for days on end. It can be found in Remedios Circle, and is open late seven days a week.

Manila has a reputation for having the best nightlife in all of Asia, but don't fret if techno is not your thing - you're not alone (you're also sane). There are many live music venues in this part of town, playing a wide range of genres from western covers to Filipino folk music.

Manila

The capital city of The Philippines, along with her residents (Manilenos), display an abundance of Latin flair. Manila is a city that was ravaged by WW2, second only in total damages to Warsaw, Poland. Looking around though, that's all in the past, as the city's many skyscrapers do so proudly exclaim. Widely considered as one of South East Asia's most cosmopolitan cities, Manila is bursting at the seams with possibilities.

The first thing most visitors will take away from it, is the unashamedly friendliness of the people. Expect big smiles, happy faces and excited waving - all from strangers. I must have been welcomed to Manila six or seven times, all within the first few hours of my arrival. This is the kind of place where a smile goes a long long way. Looking like Jesus even vaguely will get you grins and giggles galore. So don't get a haircut, don't shave and you will reap the benefits.

The streets are crowded in parts, and particularly in Pasay, the traffic is more than just daunting - it's a nightmare. Somehow though, in the midst of all this chaos and craziness, it just makes sense. If you feel the need to escape the confusion though, Rizal Park is located close by in the city centre. It's a popular picnic spot for families and lovebirds alike. There are lush green landscapes, water fountains of outrageous proportions and an abundance of outdoor aerobic classes. Don't be surprised if you get asked to join in! Why not? There are worse ways to spend your time than getting fit with gorgeous Filipino girls ;)

Near the park, you can see the shrine built for the national hero, Jose Rizal, of whom the aforementioned park was named after. Jose Rizal was among other things, a freedom fighter, scholar and renowned poet. Some of his more popular poems are on display in his shrine, which can be found in Fort Domingo, Intramuros. The site of his assassination is located in Rizal Park and flanked by armed guards 24/7.

This is the oldest part of town, with the wall that surrounds the district being built in the 16th century. Amazingly, it is still intact today, even after the battering Manila got during WW2. The area is perfect for wandering around and getting lost in. If it's too hot for such luxuries though, be sure to hail a pedi-cab. You can get a tour of all the hotspots for the bargain rate of 150 PHP, without even bargaining! Highlights include; Fort Domingo, Manila Cathedral and other historical churches. There are also a few restaurants in this part of town serving up authentic Spanish fare.


Your pedi-cab driver may have a few suggestions of his own too.
"Do you like guns, big guns?" he asks me excitedly, in an accent akin to Tony Montana.
"Sure do!" I reply, trying but failing to match his enthusiasm. All around the world - boys will be boys.
He proceeds to take me on a tour of all the guns, cannons and artillery that remain to this day. He pedals with a feverish excitement, that wasn't there only moments earlier. Clearly he is bored with churches, but the  infatuation with firepower remains.

Mumbai Madness

(The following article was published on TouristAttitude on the 28th of January, 2011. Click here to check it out)

The Gateway of India is a very somber location in the early hours of the morning. The touts and tourists are no more, leaving just the roaming street dogs in their place, alongside a few misguided bats. The canines are of a friendly nature here, and act more like they've jumped over a back fence, rather than lived their lives on the street. Although the memory of being chased through Kolkata's dark streets by a pack of wild dogs is anything but forgotten, I make firm friends with one dog, who seems particularly enamored with my blue pen, leaving behind bite marks that tell the same tale. The opposite of camera shy, she was also very fond of licking my camera lens.
 


The air is sweet and sultry, a humid mix of spices and incense that is unmistakably Indian. This is the best time of day to explore Mumbai, as not only do you have the streets to yourself, the heat is yet to reign supreme. As sunlight returns, so too do the people, and much to my delight there is a chai-wallah among the early worms! As I sit down and sip my first chai of the day, I watch an elderly woman do her morning exercises, which for some reason involves a lot of clapping. She wears a light pink sari, heavy gold jewelery and a smile that is far too bright for 7am.

Without nearly enough time for a return trip to Elephanta Island before i'm due back at the airport, I decide to check out Dharavi - the largest slum in all of Asia. It's also where many scenes from 2008's Slumdog Millionaire were shot. The slum is like a town within a town. There are vendors, businesses, and an overflowing amount of garbage. There's even a river of trash, which has clogged up the stream and allowed no water to pass.


Away from the business sector of town and into the residential enclave, the mood shifts suddenly. There is laughter abound, and alongside colorful saris and immaculately pressed shirts, the people wear broad smiles. Perhaps this is due to the abundance of shade found in the many walkways (the buildings here are built so close together, it's as if they overlap. This is not the ugly and desperate place I'd envisioned. Like the majority of India I have seen, the people are proud, loud and overflowing with life.


Mumbai is to India what NYC or Los Angeles is to the USA. People come from all over the country, in search of their slice of the pie. While it may be home to the thriving Bollywood cinema industry, people come for reasons besides a career in the limelight. For the majority of new residents, Dharavi is the first place they call home within the sprawling city. Like a microcosm of the subcontinent, Dharavi offers visitors passing through India, a taste of what the rest of the country has to offer.

Manic Mumbai

After many (16) hours on a bus and many more in transit, I find myself in India's most populous city - Mumbai (aka Bombay). Home to the thriving Bollywood cinema industry, as well as the nation's emerging financial strengths, Bombay is a great place to soak up modern India.


The city has a tropical climate, with warm balmy winters and horrendously hot summers. It feels like a big city too, with huge buildings, billboard advertisements, countless apartment blocks and a frantic frenzy that only comes with too many people and too little space. In terms of population, it is the second largest city in the world with around 15 million residents.





Compared to other metro centres like Kolkata or Delhi, the streets are remarkably clean and litter-free, although still not immaculate. You needn't look hard too hard to find rubble or refuse. For the most part though, especially in the city's southern district, the streets are swept clean and green growth is abundant. While some may refer to it as a concrete jungle, Mumbai is a city of trees. There's the coconut and palm trees that line Chowpatty beach, to the long limbed fellows who line the city streets. There's also plenty of public parks and gushing gardens, patronized by those escaping the searing heat, and young lovers averting an unwelcome gaze.


For something a little different, check out the Parsi cemetery while you're in town. Although it's strictly off limits to all tourists, a good cab driver will drive you to a lookout spot where you can have a cheeky peek over the fence. Instead of being dressed in their Sunday best and lowered underground in a wooden box, the Parsi people leave the dead bodies in the open, and at the mercy of local wildlife. A tradition that i'm told by my cabbie, is 'thousands of years strong.' 

To get around Mumbai, you have a lot of options. The train network is well developed and efficient, although a little hot when overcrowded. People push and shove too, so enjoy your cup of hot chai elsewhere, unless you'd rather wear it. The heat can make walking long distances a little tiring, so many travelers opt to hire a taxi for half a day at around 400 rupees. Although this figure isn't fixed, and with heavy bargaining you could probably get it done for 300 or less. The Gateway of India is arguably the city's biggest landmark, and undoubtedly the most photographed. It's swamped with tourists day and night, although you may just have it to yourself at the crack of dawn, if you're lucky. It's big, it's beautiful and although a little bit cliche - you've got to check it out. The surrounding harbor is worth a peek too, and if you can afford it, the Taj Mahal hotel which is adjacent to the monument, defines Indian luxury.

You won't go hungry in Mumbai, with street stalls and vendors selling regional specialties, as well as snacks from all over India. Vada Pav is an example of authentic street food, not to mention a surviving relic of the Bombay of old. Known locally as an 'Indian burger,' it consists of a curried potato puff, topped off with some fiery chutney sauce and served in a white bread bun. Although simple, it's a delicious and addictive treat which is served everywhere (especially at train stations and beaches) for about 4 rupees, or $0.10c USD. Pronounce it 'waa-dah parv' to avoid confusement.

Cafe Leopold is a Bombay institution, even without vada pav on the menu. Famous for decades with tourists, and for over a century with locals, it came back into the limelight as a popular hangout for ex-pats and small time criminals in the novel Shantaram. It was also sprayed with bullets by gunmen during the 2008 Mumbai Terrorist attacks. Established in 1871, it's undoubtedly overpriced and frequently overcrowded, but Leopold's is still a fine place to sit down for lunch and people watch. 'Bombay Masala Sandwich' is a cheesy curry sandwich, that tastes better than it should (or sounds).

 It's especially crowded at night, so thirsty travelers should probably consider finding a smaller bar to sink a few after sunset. I found myself in the equivalent of an Indian strip club, just a couple of streets over. It was like any other strip club in that the ladies were standing while the men were sitting (and leering). The smell of cheap perfume, vapid expressions and downright seediness must be universal, but the similarities stopped there.

The women were dressed in elaborate saris, beautiful jewelery and caked on make-up. They didn't dance though, but merely stood in a line, exchanging a scowl for a smile whenever eye contact was made. Men would beckon a single lady towards them, rewarding their beauty with a bundle of rupees. There was no dancing, or removal of clothes, and somehow this made it seem all the more shallow to me. The girls were given money purely for their looks, nothing else. Waiters wearing formal attire served the guests liquor and peanuts at inflated prices, while I just scratched my head absent-mindedly, lost again in yet another strange world.

Mind-bending Manali

The bus ride from Shimla to Manali, is a perfect example of passing through hell in order to get to heaven. I've been on some terrible bus journeys in my life (Bangkok to Siem Reap anyone?), but this ranks high among them - perhaps #1! The seats are cramped, air flow is minimum and this stretch of forever winding road has an insatiable appetite for motion sickness. It happens quickly. A passenger will stick their head out the window, as if looking for something, before vomiting heavily. The splashback factor often results in spray and splutter reaching even the last window on the bus. Nobody is spared the carnage and through specks of spew, the mountainous scenery is somewhat spoiled :P

With low speed monotony (260km = 11hrs), and a lack of any suspension whatsoever, time becomes nothing but a concept, passing which is impossible. At around 2.30am after four hours of silence and darkness on board, the driver having returned from a triumphant restroom stop, decides to blast Hare Krishna music. The recording sounds as if it's 50 years old, yet the elderly singer screeching at the top of her lungs is anything but feeble. Nobody on board dares to say anything, but simply toss and turn with impatience. There's a sense of silent frustration all round, but as I can never sleep on buses anyway, my sympathy is non-existent (welcome to my world). After forty minutes of what feels like the same song on repeat, the surrounding madness engulfs me and I'm no longer able to stifle uproarious laughter. I get a few frazzled looks, but it's clear to me that everyone else missed the joke. Where else but India?!

A budding local crop =D

While the journey may be exhausting, rest assured - it's worth it. Once you step off the bus you'll lose all negativity, as well as any prior sense of significance, when you first look at the surrounding scenery. Instead of nearby towns like Shimla, where the town is built in to and on top of the mountain, Manali is situated between the mountains, making the frosty foothills of the Himalayas stand out even further. Right off the bat - Manali does the unthinkable :)


Famous for more than just great hash, Manali is famed for being an adventure sport capital. On any given day (weather permitting) the offerings include; paragliding, trekking, mountain biking and white water rafting. If you find yourself staring at the impressive mountain scenery for long enough, you might just spot some of the many 'gliders' who frequent these parts. Paragliding is a remarkably affordable activity in nearby Solang Valley, with prices determined by the flight's duration ($10 - $50 USD).

Anyone can paraglide, it's done as a double act, with a tandem pilot operating the controls.You can just switch your thoughts off, and hope for the best! We set off at a running pace, stumbling frequently on both large rocks and small boulders underfoot.
"Run! No stop, no matter what!" yells Raju, my 'co-pilot.' Running on thin air is a tough act, but something you'll have to master when paragliding. The surrounding landscape is stunning, looking like a mix of Lord of the Rings and the National Geographic channel. There are snow-capped Himalayan mountains, with the foreground comprised of tall pine trees.

It happens in an instant, one which I thought would land me face first in a heap on the ground. There's an overwhelming feeling of bliss the moment your ascent begins, perhaps due to the stress and tension felt only moments earlier. Soaring like a bird through a picturesque mountain valley, my head is at long last empty of thoughts. I am at peace with the world.

Closer to the ground, but still terrifying in its own way is white water rafting. In a taxi on my way to the nearby town of Kullu, I spot a sign by the side of the road offering rafting trips. I notice a couple more so I ask my driver how easy it would be to do, he stops the car immediately in an excited manner, and before we even negotiate a price, he happily appoints himself as my official photographer.

The captain of my raft, or 'pilot' as he liked to be called, is definitely of the Kamikaze variety. He chooses to plummet over waterfalls for the hell of it. We nearly flip the raft several times, and as such, collective gasps and sighs of relief were common among crew members. We manage to avoid falling out of the boat, but walk away drenched as if we'd swam the 7km journey, rather than paddled through it.

The key to enjoying Manali is to escape the new and embrace the old - quite literally. Old Manali is only 2kms from Manali's bus stand, but a world away in every respect. Come at the right time of year (October) and you'll find you almost have the place to yourself, save for a few other like minded westerners. Even the locals seem to pack up and leave around this time of the year, but there exists a small window of opportunity for Manali perfection. You can still find all the adventure sports, as well as local horticultural products - just at heavily discounted rates!


* An edited version of this article was published on TouristAttitude, click here to check it out.